This is a pair of still life’s framed in hand finished inlay frames. Inlay frames are normally used for canvases but can also be used to frame works on artist board. The artist, Ann Stoker (www.annstoker.co.uk), likes to paint up to the edge of her supports so using this framing technique allows the whole painting to be seen without obscuring the few mm around the edges that would happen with a traditional lipped frame.
The pair have been framed with a small gap between the edges of the board and the frame to give a 3D effect which gives the floating appearance which is pleasing to the eye. The frame was finished in black with a gold face, distressed to show the red ‘bole’ underneath. The boards themselves are raised in the inlay frame using a subframe and are mounted just below the edges of the frame.
I have a framing job in the workshop. It’s a print from the 1960’s signed by the artist and is of some value. On taking the print out of the existing frame I found the barrier board seen in the photograph below.
The barrier board sits between the print and the backing board, isolating the print to avoid acid burn from the backing board.
10 smarty points to anyone who can explain the reason for the marks on the board (answers will be posted here in a few days).
Sometimes what appears obvious to one person is not so for another. I was talking to a customer in the workshop the other day and I mentioned that I would be using T-hinges to mount their photograph. I found myself explaining exactly what a T- hinge is and why it is a good Idea to use this technique.
Hence this post where I describe the use of T- hinges and the use with a window mount.
T- hinges are a standard and proven way of mounting photographs and other works on paper in preparation for framing. They attach the work to the under mount using the minimum necessary contact with the work yet provide a secure fastening to ensure that the work does not move once framed. Used correctly they eliminate the cockling seen on badly mounted photographs and are reversible, allowing the item to be removed from the frame with no damage. Try doing that if you use masking tape.
T-hinges are almost always used with a mount with an upper window mount hinged using tape to a lower sub-mount to which the artwork is fixed.
For this demonstration I’m using a photograph of the northern lights and a window mount cut from conservation grade mount board cut on our computerised mount cutter.
T-hinges are designed to allow strong and reliable mounting of paper based artwork but at the same time to allow the artwork to move ever so slightly. Paper expands and contracts with changes in humidity and if the paper was taped along all edges, or even one edge, there is a significant risk that when the paper expands the picture would wrinkle (cockle in framing parlance) as the expanding paper has nowhere to go. T-hinges allow this expansion to take place and the use of a window mount allows the paper to expand and move under the edges of the mount.
T-hinges are made from two strips of gummed paper and attached to the reverse of the top edge of the item to be framed. Once the item has been positioned correctly a second strip of paper is used to secure the first strip to the under mount. This forms the ‘T’ shape and holds the item securely in place.